6. Repair a Dim Headlight

-Simply clean the ground connection to restore the brightness of dim headlights. And apply a little dielectric grease. Or replace the bulb if you see a gray/brown film on the inside of the glass.

If your car has a headlight that puts out about as much light as a flashlight with weak batteries, we’ve got two simple fixes for you.
Most DIYers think they’ve got a bad headlight switch or a bad connection in the power feed. But most dim headlights are caused by a corroded ground wire. Just trace the wiring harness from the back of each headlight assembly and see where it connects to the vehicle body.

Another possibility is that as headlight filaments age, they deposit a gray/brown film on the inside of the bulb. Over time, that coating can reduce visibility by almost 300 ft. If your headlights aren’t as bright as they used to be, pull one of the bulbs and look for gray or brown residue on the glass. If you find any, replace both bulbs now and get back to seeing more of the road.

Required Tools for this Project
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
•Adjustable wrench
•Wire brush Required

Materials for this Project
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time.
Here’s a list.
•Dielectric grease

7. How to Change a Thermostat

-In most cases, the cause of an overheating or no-heat condition in your vehicle is a faulty thermostat. And since a new “T-stat” costs only about $8, it makes more sense to replace it than to spend hours diagnosing the problem. If that doesn’t fix it, at least you’re only out about two hours.

Pick up a new T-stat and gasket, as well as RTV sealant, fresh coolant (to top off the system) and hose-clamping pliers at an auto parts store. And while you’re there, ask the clerk for the torque specs for the gooseneck bolts. Then gather up your metric sockets, a plastic scraper and a drip pan. Slide the drip pan under the engine to catch the spilled coolant.

The T-stat is usually located near the top of the engine under a “gooseneck” housing attached to the upper radiator hose. If yours isn’t there, consult a shop manual to locate it. Here’s how to change the thermostat: Remove the two or three bolts that hold the gooseneck in place and remove the T-stat (Photo 1). Next, clean both the engine and the gooseneck sealing surfaces (Photo 2). If the parts store gave you a plain gasket, coat one side with RTV sealant (self-adhesive gaskets don’t need sealant). Then install the T-stat and gasket (Photo 3). If the old T-stat used a rubber O-ring instead of a gasket, lubricate the new one with fresh coolant before you insert it. Reinstall the gooseneck and top off the coolant.

Required Tools for this DIT Project
•Rags
•Socket/ratchet set

Materials for this Project
•Coolant
•Gasket
•RTV sealant
•T-stat

8. Troubleshoot Windshield Washers

-A windshield washer that doesn't pump enough fluid is annoying and even hazardous. This quick diagnostic checklist explains how to find and fix the problem.

Check pump operation; Follow the washer tubing from the reservoir to the tee. Disconnect the tubing and have a friend press the washer button. A strong stream of washer fluid indicates a good pump but a clogged nozzle.

If you press the button for windshield juice and nothing comes out, you probably have a clogged nozzle. Start your diagnosis by making sure there’s fluid in the reservoir. If so, check for fluid flow at the tee near the cowl. If that checks out, leave the tubing off the tee and clear out the nozzle with a compressed air gun. However, if you couldn’t get fluid flow at the tee, you probably need a new pump.

Required Tools for this DIT Project
•Air compressor
•Air hose
•Rags

9. Replacing the Washer Pump

-If you don’t hear the pump and the fuse is OK, the problem is usually a poor electrical connection at the pump or a bad pump. Most car manufacturers mount the washer pump near or inside the washer fluid reservoir. To locate your reservoir, simply follow the washer hose. If your reservoir is located in the engine compartment, access is simple. But many are hidden inside the front fender. Remove the wheel and the wheel line fender liner. Then you’ll have access to the reservoir and pump. Remove the pump wire connector and have a friend operate the pump switch while you check for 12 volts with a digital meter at the connector. If you don’t have voltage, the problem is probably in the washer switch or the wiring. That’s the time to take the vehicle to a pro.

If you have voltage, clean the terminals and coat them with dielectric silicone grease. Try the pump again. If it works, your problem is solved. If it doesn’t, replace the pump. The main cause of pump failure is repeatedly running the motor while the reservoir is empty. So try to keep your reservoir full to avoid dealing with replacing a bad one.

10. Clean your Air / Fuel Intake System

-Do you get a crummy idle or poor engine response when you put the pedal to the metal? You may have soot and carbon buildup on the valves, intake manifold and throttle body assembly, as well as clogged fuel injectors. Shops charge $80 and up to perform a fuel induction cleaning service. But you can do the same thing in about 30 minutes with a Do It Yourself Tune-up Kit for less that half the price. It should come with an Instructional DVD. Then grab the kit, a screwdriver, goggles and rags and you’re ready to bust crud.

Disclaimer: THIS PUBLICATION IS PROVIDED -AS IS- WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED. IN NO EVENT SHALL 1 AUTO SHOP LLC OR ANY OF ITS AFFILIATES BE LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES, OF ANY KIND, UNDER ANY THEORY OF LIABILITY, ARISING OUT OF USE OF THIS PUBLICATION. 1 AUTO SHOP LLC ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ERRORS OR OMISSIONS IN THIS PUBLICATION OR DOCUMENTS REFERENCED BY OR LINKED HERETO.